Clean the inside of the boom with plastic abrasive pad.
Loosely thread the large compression nut with the rubber bushing onto the end of the metal boom.
Run the wire into the threaded hole near the clutch and then through the boom and out the other end. This wire will be used to pull the new boom cable through the boom.
Strip back the insulation on the new boom cable 2-3 inches and tape the new boom cable to the 12 gauge-wire.
Pull the new boom cable through the boom and out the threaded hole near the clutch.
Continue pulling the cable through the boom while inserting the new fiberglass boom extension into the metal boom.
The safety line eyelets on the end of the fiberglass boom extension should be facing down.
Be sure the fiberglass boom extension is all the way in the boom and that all of the boom cable’s slack has been pulled through the boom.
Reinstall the cable strain relief near the clutch and tighten.
Tighten the large compression nut on the end of the metal boom. This should secure the fiberglass boom extension to the metal boom. If it is loose, you may need to wrap tape around the fiberglass boom extension.
Remove the plastic strain relief on the boat near the clutch and slide it over the new boom cable.
Tape the new boom cable to the old boom cable.
Pull the new boom cable through the hole on the boat near the clutch. Leave enough slack between the boom and the boat to allow full motion of the boom.
Reinstall the strain relief and tighten.
Cut the boom cable to the proper length and crimp a new lug to the cable or re-solder it to the metal circular connector.
Reconnect the boom cable.
Check the grounding cable between the aluminum boat hull and the metal boom with a continuity tester. The grounding cable insures that the metal of the boom will be at the same voltage potential as the boat hull and therefore eliminates any shock hazard from inside the boat to the boom.
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